Car Stereo Help

Remote wire pin 25 When I splice wires, I try not to ever cut the original wire. Instead, I take a razor or in this case, a swiss army knife and cut off a half inch section of the insulation to expose the bare wire. I then wrap the taping wire around the bare section and electrical tape the whole thing up. I feel like the connection is better and has less of a chance of coming apart. Here’s what I mean: The next step is to tap into the amp for the remote turn on led. For those of you who do not know, this is the wire that turns your amp on when your car turns on. I forgot to write down what wire this was on the back of the amp, but this is good. It’s pin number 25 shown below This way you get to do some investigating on your own.

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The necessary relay is in the PDC when the harness is installed at the factory, and the Mopar Parts trailer tow harness has the relay built into the harness. As I have said before, and others have supported, you are courting with a fire or at the least a destruction of your headlight switch if you continue to tow, with your lights on, without the CC harness installed as directed.

This for light duty trailers, boats, snowmobiles, bikes, etc. It is important that it be installed as the directions say as the TSB sez “

Make sure this fits by entering your model number.; This unit plugs into other units included in the Hook up Connectable Entertaining System so you can mix and match units for any occasion.

Here are pictures and info about the visible upgrades to my stereo. Wiring Diagram is at the bottom. Most information is for LSE model, but there are wire colors at the bottom for other models. I installed a pair of subwoofers in my Disco. I wanted to keep the factory CD changer and I have been pretty happy with the sound quality of the factory radio, but it did need some more bass.

I would love to hear any suggestions on how to get the diversity antennas to pull radio stations in better. I get some static in all but the most powerful stations since I live away from a big city.


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Yup, Gamakatsu finally fixed the baitkeeper. I’m glad, because this was such an awesome hook and that was always the deal breaker. These have now become my main punching hook. One of the things that I think stands out with this hook is the amount of shank between the keeper and the eye. A lot of hooks don’t give much room to work with when tying a snell knot and these give you plenty.

On top of that they are very sharp and the perfect gauge imo; never been a fan of the super heavy wire hooks. This hook no longer has the bait keeper problem. The bait keeper is now welded on. Great sticky sharp hook that has a high hook up and land ratio. Get some, you won’t be disappointed. I bought a ton of these when they first came out, before I realized how bad the keeper was.

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I have a good amp already and just need a new box for my subs. Would I have to run a wire from each rear speaker to the amp or just one? And I’m guessing it’s just a matter of splicing the wires together correct?

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OK, you can get this with a nice explanation from the Ross-Tech link above, but here’s the abbreviated version: When you install an aftermarket radio, do not attach the yellow k-line wire from the car into the radio. Keep it out of the harness, fold it over, tape it up so it won’t short to anything, then tuck it out of the way somewhere or tape it to the rest of the wires that are still connected. If it is already installed, then pull it out of the harness, then tape it up.

Don’t connect the K-line wire to anything. That is the fix. The K-line is a wire used by the ECU to communicate with the radio. If you have an aftermarket radio, it won’t talk to the ECU anyway, so you aren’t missing anything by disconnecting it. Old instructions had aftermarket installers connecting the K-line to 12v power at the radio harness.

In the Mk III and later chassis, it makes communication via the diagnostic port impossible. In order to start communications via the diag. The ability of the interface device plugged into the diag.

Dodge Durango Car Radio Wiring Diagram

If you have no idea why you might even want to do that, let alone how to do it, read on. If you don’t even know what a relay is – go read my All About Relays page before going any further. I made this modification years ago on one of my cars after installing higher output headlights – I needed to solve the “flickering headlights” problem that resulted when I used my high beams. The new lights drew so much more power that the existing circuit breaker in the headlight switch was being overloaded.

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This requires a more robust antenna and electrical system than what might be used for the more common low powered or CB radio systems. The electrical system must be capable of delivering a constant 40 amps minimum of DC current at These radios must be wired with both red positive and blue negative wires direct to the battery with 8ga for up to 10 feet and 6ga. Attaching the negative lead to vehicle chassis ground will not work.

When connecting a high power 10 meter radio to a DC power supply the power supply must be rated at a minimum of 40 amps constant at Some radio antennas that may have worked with lower powered models do not always mean they will work with high powered radios. High powered radios tend to stress and expose any weak spots in the antenna system such as inadequate antenna grounds, cheap coax and poorly soldered coax connections.

Magnet mount type antennas are never a good choice for high powered radios. Newer model Class 8 trucks with fiberglass cabs will not normally have good grounds supplied to the mirror mounts and may need to be retrofitted. These antenna systems will not work with high powered radios. With a case such as this you must install a separate high quality length of coax from the high powered radio directly to the antenna or a special co-phased coax harness if running dual antennas.

This means extra special attention must be paid to making sure your antenna system is properly matched to your vehicle. Antennas should always be tested by technicians trained in antenna impedance and VSWR.

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Look at the very bottom of the iPod. There should be a port that you usually use when plugging the device into its charger. The smaller end of your iPod to AV cable should have a component that connects to this port. Plug the cable into the iPod to continue. It is compatible with all version of the iPod. If you do happen to have an iPod AV cable instead of the composite version, you will need to plug the iPod end of the cable into the headphone jack.

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Look down and to the right of the bolt that you just removed, and you will see two more bolts. Remove the bolts 6mm that hold the timing belt cover in place. Gently work your way around the cover, and push the tabs in to remove the cover. Once removed, gently tap the pulley with a 2×4 yes the wooden board to remove. If you have a gear puller, use that. I don’t own one. Remove the old belt. Now for the alignment. Crank – sprocket on bottom.

Once the keyway is at high noon, leave it alone.


Cobra Uniden Antenna Amplifiers Microphones Cb radio reviews modifications Cobra Uniden Antenna Amplifiers Microphones Cb radio reviews modifications Power wire hookup – battery or cigarette plug When hooking up a CB radio one of the many decisions to figure out is how to wire it up for power. The majority of CB radios have two wires, a positive wire red and a negative wire black. The positive wire needs a To do this often will require more wire than is provided with your CB radio.

If you choose to wire your radio using this method you will want to make sure that any extra wire you purchase is of the same gauge or larger than the original manufacturer’s wire. Also, if adding additional wire to the stock wiring make sure you use solid connectors that completely cover and protect any connections from being exposed.

I love Aaron Marten but I would not put my name to these hooks. Like him, I have won on Lake Champlain with the drop shot being one of my techniques. I bought these hooks on special order when they were first introduced and I can not begin to tell you how many slobs I have had to watch come off. Barb is to small. Trust me on this one my fellow fishing peers and tight lines to you all the way in the boat!!!!!!

Per one of the reviews below, this hook does have a barb. When Martens designed this hook he wanted a smaller barb so not to hurt the fish. Do to the thin wire and sharper point a smaller barb works fine. You shouldn’t lose fish. It’s a very nice hook and lighter wire than most drop shot hooks.

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